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 The grey wire is your tachometer
lead - it goes to one side of the tach the other side goes to ground.
The heavy yellow wire and the
heavy yellow with black strip are you 170 watt light coil, these
connect to your regulator rectifier - which then charges your battery.
They can also be hooked up to SOME strobe lights - CHECK before
connecting to make sure your strobe will work connected directly to
the system!!!
The two remaining yellow wires
are you ignition kill switch one for each magneto. Connect them to one
side of a switch and run the other side to a ground.
Question:
I have a Rotax 582 with an after market electric starter. It seems
that about every two weeks my battery is low or dead. So I hook it
up to a charger overnight and it seems to take and hold a charge. I
suspect that the battery is not receiving a charge from the engine.
I hooked a voltmeter up to the battery leads tonight. The battery
had about 12.7 volts. Then I started the engine and measured the
voltage across the leads with the engine running at about 3000 rpm.
It measured 12.6 volts. Is this adequate? I think it should
read more like 14+ volts. Any ideas?
Buzzman answer:
Disconnect the leads from the lighting coil to the rect/reg check the
AC voltage with the engine at 5500 or so RPM voltage should be above
30 volts then reattach those leads and disconnect the leads from the
rect/reg to the charger read the DC voltage with engine at 5500 RPM
voltage should be around the 14 or so you anticipated.
You do have a problem, just where is the question with all wires
attached, you can read the similar points, engine running, and see how
much lower the numbers at the lighting coil outputs.
The 'open circuit' voltage from the lighting coil will
be very high, perhaps even 50 V AC, but connecting it to the regulator
- rectifier reg drops it quickly to 15
or so the DC output is the same as the voltages you measured at the
battery with the engine off, battery voltage should be 13 or so and
this will depend to a great degree on when it was charged and how
much, the small systems we use will not match a good commercial
charger for charging a battery, they will run them up to 15 or so, but
this high reading will be quickly reduced by either hitting the
starter briefly or turning on a device of some sort.
I suspect all the various parts but the usual problem is the
regulator, rectifier.
Resistance values of Ducati ignition unit:
- Ignition coil - Secondary coil in external box 5.1 to 6.3
ohms
- Stator - Light coil, yellow-yellow/black .3 to .35 ohms
- Charging coil, green/white 230 to 280 ohms
Rev counter (Tachometer)
- Pick-up (grey/white) 30 to 35 ohms
- Pick-up old type (red-engine ground) to 4017191 50 to 70
ohms
- Pick-up, new type (red/white engine ground) from 4017191
140 to 180 ohms
Ignition "OFF" - black/yellow-brown (ground) closed circuit
Ignition "ON" - black/yellow-brown (ground) open circuit |
One of the things that many pilots fail to realize is that the
output wires from the engine to the tachometer need to be shielded if
a radio is installed on their aircraft. In addition the ignition shut
off wires and the charging system wires ALSO need to be shielded!
These three systems, ignition, tachometer and charging all can
cause radio static or interference just as an improperly connected
strobe light can. |
