Rotax Ducati ignition wiring diagram

The grey wire is your tachometer lead - it goes to one side of the tach the other side goes to ground.

The heavy yellow wire and the heavy yellow with black strip are you 170 watt light coil, these connect to your regulator rectifier - which then charges your battery. They can also be hooked up to SOME strobe lights - CHECK before connecting to make sure your strobe will work connected directly to the system!!!

The two remaining yellow wires are you ignition kill switch one for each magneto. Connect them to one side of a switch and run the other side to a ground. 

Question:
 
I have a Rotax 582 with an after market electric starter.  It seems that about  every two weeks my battery is low or dead.  So I hook it up to a charger  overnight and it seems to take and hold a charge.  I suspect that the battery  is not receiving a charge from the engine.  I hooked a voltmeter up to the  battery leads tonight.  The battery had about 12.7 volts.  Then I started the  engine and measured the voltage across the leads with the engine running at  about 3000 rpm.  It measured 12.6 volts.  Is this adequate?  I think it should
 read more like 14+ volts.  Any ideas?
 
Buzzman answer:
Disconnect the leads from the lighting coil to the rect/reg check the AC voltage with the engine at 5500 or so RPM voltage should be above 30 volts then reattach those leads and disconnect the leads from the rect/reg to the charger read the DC voltage with engine at 5500 RPM voltage should be around the 14 or so you anticipated.

You do have a problem, just where is the question with all wires attached, you can read the similar points, engine running, and see how much lower the numbers at the lighting coil outputs.

The 'open circuit' voltage from the lighting coil will be very high, perhaps even 50 V AC, but connecting it to the regulator - rectifier reg drops it quickly to 15
or so the DC output is the same as the voltages you measured at the battery with the engine off, battery voltage should be 13 or so and this will depend to a great degree on when it was charged and how much, the small systems we use will not match a good commercial charger for charging a battery, they will run them up to 15 or so, but this high reading will be quickly reduced by either hitting the starter briefly or turning on a device of some sort.

I suspect all the various parts but the usual problem is the regulator, rectifier.

One of the things that many pilots fail to realize is that the output wires from the engine to the tachometer need to be shielded if a radio is installed on their aircraft. In addition the ignition shut off wires and the charging system wires ALSO need to be shielded!

These three systems, ignition, tachometer and charging all can cause radio static or interference just as an improperly connected strobe light can.

• How to minimizing noise in radio and intercoms:
  Most strobe driver units are designed with filtering and internal shielding to keep radio interference to a minimum, however occasionally noise will be heard over the radio or intercom This noise is almost always caused by the way the systems have been installed. One must remember that noise does not always come from the power that is being supplied to your equipment.
  Click here for more information
  
• ELECTRONIC SHIELDING OF IGNITION SYSTEMS ON TWO STROKE ULTRALIGHT ENGINES
  This information is provided as a guide for shielding your aircraft for the successful installation and operation of any AM radio system. Engines used in ultralight aircraft are traditionally two stroke 20 to 75 horse-power units which use a magneto to generate electric current in order to produce a high energy spark for ignition. This type of ignition is reliable and effective and used on most aircraft utilizing gasoline-fueled engines.
  Click here for more info!

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