Ultralight Float flying - Flying ultralights
on floats! 
I love flying on water. To me it is the only
way to go! Especially in Ontario where lakes and rivers are so
abundant. I became addicted to float flying on an old single place
MX, since then I have had a two place MX, 7 single place
Buccaneer XA's, 3 Buccaneer SX's, six two place Buccaneers,
two SeaReys, a Kitfox, an Avid Catalina, a Tierra, an
Explorer, a Beaver RX 550, a Merlin, believe it or not a Murphy
Renegade, a trike and several of my L'il Buzzards on the
water.
It has been a love that has become an
addiction - and an addiction that has nearly killed me twice. Mind
you so has flying, but those are stories for another time.
Now remember just about any ultralight can be
equipped with floats, or for that matter can be made amphibious. But
there are a number of things that you must consider when adding
floats to an ultralight.
These deal with the floats, the plane, pilot
and the "air(water)field". 
The Plane:
There are basically two kinds of float planes
- ones that are built to be float planes and those that have been
adapted to handle floats and or amphibious gear.
These also
can be broken down into a center hull or float like the Buccaneer
Amphibian or the Lotus Mono Hull and the two float
system.
The Center Hull or Mono-float systems - These
craft land and take off on a center float, with two sponsors out on
the wings for support in cross wind conditions. On the
"Mono-Float' system the pilot sits in his plane but above the float,
and when on amphib gear he is "really" above the float. When landing this takes a bit of getting use to. When you land
on water the plane "floats" on the center hull and can tip one way
or the other depending on the wind. When landing on land the pilot
has to get accustomed to the extra height required by the landing
gear to allow the float to clear the ground.
While in the "amphibian" craft like the
Buccaneer the pilot sits inside the "float" and literally lands with
"seat of his pants" touching the water. Both aircraft present
problems when trying to dock, for fuel, or to get in and out of the
plane.
With the sponsors out on the wing it is hard to get
close to anything, and unlike dual floats when you try to exit the
craft you do not have anything to step out onto. Thus these craft
really need an area where you can drive them in an out of the water.
Experience has s hown that the "amphibian" style are not as
suited for lakes with high wind and rough water.
For "TRIKE" lovers there is the "flying boat"
a unique unit that is now available from a couple of different
manufacturers. In this application a boat, similar to what most
people know as a "Kodiak boat' is attached to a Trike airframe.
Giving you the best of both worlds.
The next type of plane is the land plane which
has been adapted to handle floats - that is the two float system.
For ultralights there are a couple of different styles of floats on
the market, from several manufactures. We currently have available
to us the Full Lotus float system, the Puddle Jumper fiber glass
floats, and aluminum floats available from Zenair, Murphy and
Aquafloat.
The Full Lotus two float system for ultralight
is available in two sizes to fit ultralight aircraft
weights up to 1260 lbs. Advantages of this system are they are
strong, durable, easy to repair, light weight, easy to ship, are
already built, and can be easily mounted on any ultralight. They are
available as straight floats or amphib floats.
Problems: Over
the years Full Lotus has updated or revised their floats on several
occasions. In 1999 they put out an update which changed the way the
upper and lower sections of their float system are held together.
This update is available to ALL Full Lotus owners free of
charge.
The main problems reported by owners, of Full
Lotus floats is "ruptured or leaky bladders." The ruptured airbags
are usually a result of "stall landings," and or improper
inflation. 
The loss of air in the bladders are usually a
result of improper inflation which allows the bladders to move
inside the float causing the to "pinch" and leak .
WATER IN THE BLADDERS is another reported
problem. I found it hard to believe that water could enter a
bladder, when there was no loss of air, or signs of leaking.
Apparently there are a number of ways this can happen.
*One
the air used to fill the bladders from a compressor contains
air.
*When air is heated and cooled water forms. Picture a
float sitting on water on a cool summer night, then picture the same
float at mid day and 90 degrees F.
*Another way according
to informed sources is "osmosis". Now I am not going to try to
explain this one you'll have to look it up and draw your own
conclusion.
Click below for more information on the
Full
Lotus Float systems.
The next type of  float is the fiber glass float. Puddle Jumper is
one manufacturer and their floats can be found around the country on
Challengers, Rans, Titan aircraft etc. The floats come in about the
same weight as the Full Lotus (roughly 150 lbs). They come prebuilt,
ready for installation, and are available in also with amphib gear.
These floats are favoured on some aircraft because of their lower
drag, and I can say that on planes like the Challenger they do out
perform the Full Lotus system for getting out the
water.
Problems: The main problems reported from
pilots using this system are, the strength and durability of the
float - with the floats report ably cracking at the step and
where the two float halves are joined together. This normally
results in an overturned plane. Another reported problem on the
older systems using the amphib set up was with sticking real wheels
and failed nose wheel supports.
The next type of float is the aluminum float.
Several manufac turers offer kits, including Zenair,
Murphy, and Aqua Float. Aluminum floats were the main stay of the
aircraft industry and have been around since the inception of
flying. For ultralights most have to built from kits that take
between 200 and 300 hours to build. They are light, very
aerodynamic, and because they are kit built, are priced within the
reach of most pilots.
Problems: Most problems reported deal with the
"durability" of the float, and with constant leaking. Many pilots
report getting pin holes in their floats after beaching for short
periods of time on sandy beaches.
One way of helping to
prevent "leaking" is to "slosh" the inside of the floats with a
rubber sealant.
Click here for more information on Aluminum Floats .
If you are flying on floats ALWAYS check for
water in the float and or bladder compartments. On the Full Lotus
system a check 3 or 4 times a year is recommended. On fiberglass and
aluminum floats check prior to EVERY take off! Many pilots install
small electric bilge pumps like those used in boats. When mounted in
the step area of the float it allows easy draining of the
float.
I believe a gallon of water weighs in at about 8 lbs
- two gallons moving to the tail of the float on lift off can and
has caused ultralights to crash and pilots to be injured or
killed.
For plans for
floats for ultralights click here.
Now I am not going to get into mounting your
floats. But you need to make sure of several things ALL of which
should be available from your manufacturer or the float
supplier.
It is important that your floats mounting
hardware is strong!!!! During take off and or landing you can
reach speeds close to 50 mph. When you consider you plane can weigh
in at 1200 lbs - that is a lot of stress on everything. This would
not be a good time for mounting hardware to fail!
The position of the float relative to the
center of LIFT on the wing is critical, as is the position of the
floats relative to the C of G of the plane! Another factor is the
angle of incidence BETWEEN the floats and the wing.
Floats mounted to far back will cause the nose
of the plane to push up and possibly stall, too far forward and the
plane will be nose heavy. If the angle is wrong between the float
and the wing you may not be able to rotate, or produce excessive
drag.
Your Plane:
Okay you have decided
what kind of float you want to go with - now lets look at a
your plane. Let's say you take an average float system set up you
will be adding about 150 lbs to your plane. In most cases you will
also add extra fuel capacity, and possibly an electric start and
battery, if you have every flown on floats you'll understand why! If
not picture yourself standing on a set of floats at the rear of an
RX 550 Beaver pulling on a recoil rope, with a prop about 2 feet
from you as your plane starts moving forward when the engine starts.
You will also be flying during the summer months, which generally
come with hot humid days, while some Full Lotus customers fly on
floats all year round I wouldn't recommend it on fiberglass or
aluminum floats.
Imagine you have just increased your body
weight by 35%, none of this being MUSCLE just weight, now try
climbing a flight of stairs, on a 90 degree day with high humidity!
That is what you are asking your plane to do. So BEFORE you decide
to put floats on your plane think of what kind of performance you
get out of it as a land plane, when it is loaded. If you get about
500 feet per minute climb and cruise at 65 mph - chop your climb
rate in half and take about 10 mph off your cruise at the same power
setting.
In most cases more power is recommended - BUT
this also depends on whether your plane can take the additional
power and extra weight of a larger engine. The only person that can
tell you that is the AIRCRAFT manufacturer. Another factor you
MUST be aware of is your gross weight - many ultralights could
be OVER GROSS when equipped with floats - do the math.
Propeller: Your propeller is another thing you
have to consider. If it does not have some kind of leading edge
protection on it - after one take off you will be able to use it as
a wall clock! A ground adjustable prop is a more worthwhile
investment than a fixed pitch prop . On floats you can dial it in
better for take off - and then redial it back when you switch back
to wheels.
My preference is for composite props like
the
IVOPROP over wood propellers. I have found that wood props
require more maintenance, rot, varnish peels off, expand and
contract - which can effect the torque on your prop bolts. They
also goes out of balance more often.
The Pilot:
A pilot flying on floats needs
to realize that there is a difference in all fazes of the
flight operation.
Preflight: A float plane is harder to
preflight - you can't get at things the way you can on a land plane.
BUT a thorough preflight IS required none the less! AND that
preflight MUST include the floats - inside and out as well as the
mounting hardware!
Boarding: NEVER ALLOW anyone to board
OR exit your plane when the engine is RUNNING.
Instruct passengers or crew on the proper way to enter and exit the
craft PRIOR to boarding. ESPECIALLY deal with the emergency
exit procedures and ensure adequate life jackets etc are on board
and within reach or INSTALLED on the occupants.
NOTE
OF CAUTION: Personal experience has shown me that a standard
life jacket can pose problems when exiting an overturned and
submerging craft. The bulkiness and floatation can hinder a smooth
exit. WEARING the type of vest that you can inflate once clear of
the craft may be an option.
Starting the engine: Remember when you start
the engine YOU have NO brakes. So make sure NO ONE or NO THING is in
your path - remembering that the path is about 35 fee wide! Consider
the wind, speed, and direction BEFORE you start your engine. If the
engine starts and you move out onto the lake and then it quits -
where are you going to end UP! PADDLES for both pilot and passenger
are recommended! A tow rope is also handy - that way you can through
it to a boat to tow you in - to shore so someone can help - or you
can jump into the water and with the rope attached to the plane act
as an anchor to prevent it from going into the rocks etc.
Taxiing: While water rudders do aid in
steering your plane (most ultralights I have flown do not have them)
they are not as positive especially in a wind as when you taxi on
land.
When taxiing DOWNWIND be very careful -
especially on aircraft like the MX with a high wing and tail. I have
watched several times as pilot's have throttled up while going
downwind - and watched as the tail lifts up and the craft
somersaults forward.
When you have to turn cross wind on the water
try to make your initial turn into the wind rather than with
the wind pushing you. And use your ailerons to keep the wing that is
into the wind down! ( Practice in a large vacant section of the lake
- using short blasts from the throttle to help compensate for the
wind.) On amphibians like the Buccaneer be careful turning - waves
will fill your hull with water. THIS WATER must be pumped out prior
to take-off. Again a small bilge pump running while you taxi will
come in handy.
Take Off: When considering how much room you
will need to take off and climb out. Visualize what you would need
for a normal take off on wheels. NOW at least double it! Whether you
know the lake or not - taxi the full course up and back. Look for
things like rocks, or other obstacles, something like a log that
might have drifted in. By taxiing the complete length of your
"runway" you do one other thing - you have just checked for BOAT
wakes. NOW before you take off look to make sure NO boats have
crossed your "runway." Hitting the wake from a large cabin cruiser
at 45 mph - just as you are about to lift off will really get your
attention! You will lift off STALL and hit the water like a
rock!
When taking off - take off INTO the wind - and
remember that on calm glassy water, with little or no wind it is
MUCH harder and will take longer to break free from the
water.
Your next problem is that you have now taxied
your engine for probably 10 minutes it is cold! You need to bring
the temps up to operating temperature - hard to do with no brakes.
To do this bring you plane up on to the step and taxi along a bit.
Then apply your power slowly until the plane lifts off. DO NOT use
abrupt power inputs. This will help prevent COLD
SEIZURE!
Flying: Some things you will notice while
flying on float vs. land is that your climb rate is not as good.
Thus you need to consider that boat house or 100 ft tree at the end
of the lake. I once stood helplessly on shore while a friend took
off on floats. He took too long to get airborne, when he did he
couldn't clear the bull rushes at the end of the lake. It took us
nearly 4 hours to pull him out. BEFORE you take off mentally make an
"abort" mark on your "strip." This spot has to allow you to back
down on power and stop long before you are in trouble. With me that
would be about the halfway mark. Use something on the shoreline for
a reference point.
In most cases you will need to use a higher
throttle setting to maintain the cruise speed you are accustomed to.
This will usually mean a higher fuel burn so make sure keep track of
your fuel. Where you use to be able to fly for 2 hours you may now
only be able to fly for an hour and a half.
Turns will probably feel a little "mushy" -
due to the added drag and extra weight. REMEMBER that the addition
of floats and the added things that go with them WILL increase you
stall speed AND cut down on your glide ratio. Most float planes
glide like a rock!
Landing: Like taking off on water landing also
requires a couple of additional checks and considerations. First
when landing and taking off - try to take off as close to shore as
possible without causing danger to those in the surrounding area.
Try to take off and land while someone is WATCHING. Take off and
land where possible within 50 feet of the shore and preferably
with fisherman in the area! Why - because when you sink he
will see you and hopefully come to your rescue.
Landing close to shore gives your mind a
perspective of where the water is - in the middle of the lake your
brain will find this hard to compute - because it has nothing to
refer to.
Use your circuit to look for boaters,
swimmers, obstructions, wave height, wind direction etc. Especially
look for boaters that MIGHT be getting ready to head out. Someone
getting ready to pull up a water skier for example.
Another recommendation is to OPEN or at least
unlatch your doors where possible. When a plane crashes into the
water things have a tendency to bend. A bent door frame or a sliding
canopy guide rail can trap you inside, then prevent you from opening
the door or canopy. If you have a passenger instruct them once again
on HOW to exit the plane remembering that in all likely hood they
will be upside down with water rushing in and pushing against the
doors. Your body weight will be pressing against the seat belt. A
sharp pocket knife is something I now carry with me when float
flying.
Of course water condition also plays a part in
accidents. Too calm and you CAN'T see the water. Too rough and you
risk float damage, and or upsetting. That is another reason for
landing close to shore and picking a calmer section of the lake,
even if it means a long taxi back to where you want to go.
Remember there are only two kinds of float
plane pilots - those that have gotten wet and those that are GOING
to get wet. As you can probably guess from the above I fit into the
first category - several times.
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